Monday, June 25, 2007

24 June 2007 – day 2

Up at 0600. This ain’t no vacation. Steve and Drew went out to jog the dog. They actually did go running. During their adventure, they found the big track used by the Tok Mushing Club. How cool, a sled dog track for Malley! They all ran around the track a few times and came back tired.

Places to go, things to do, 490 miles to drive today. But first, sourdough pancakes and reindeer sausage. Yes, reindeer sausage. Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it. So we got ready for the day and decided to let Malley hang in the motel while we went to breakfast. Steve carried the kennel into the room, we locked her up and off we went.

Breakfast was at the café at the Sourdough Campground about a mile outside of Tok. We’ve been here before. Their sourdough starter dates back to 1956 – how cool is that? I can’t keep sourdough starter going for more than a few months. I’m a pretty good cook, but a lousy gardener, so I’ve deduced that sourdough started is much more like gardening than cooking. If you ever get the chance, try sourdough pancakes. YUM! We shared a side of reindeer sausage and some bacon, along with a bunch of fruit & coffee. The owner introduced us to the sausage as Dasher and Fred. It is much like smoked kielbasa and not game-y at all.

Here’s breakfast:


Here are the guys in the café:



Breakfast over, we headed back to the motel to pack up and check out. Much to our surprise, Malley greeted us at the door. This is not good. We were warned that huskies tend to chew and destroy when they are bored and being such social animals, they are pretty much bored any time they are alone. When we got Malley at 4 months, she was already crate trained so we kept it up. Luckily, all she did was chew up a roll of toilet paper and dance in the bathtub (muddy paw prints gave her away). So we loaded the car and headed to Haines.

About 5 minutes outside Tok, Steve said, “I wonder if we should have stopped for gas in Tok.” My response? “Well, you’re the one who’s going to walk when we run out.” We had about ½ a tank, but that doesn’t always mean you’ll make it to the next stop on the AlCan. Eventually we came upon the: Naabia Niign Gas Groceries Alaska Native Crafts Camper Park Laundry Showers. Unleaded fuel $3.51, 13 gallons set us back $48.03, OOMMFFFFF!

We stopped at the border for a few pictures. I have a great photo of us when we arrived at this sign 3 years ago, but it was packed and taken away by the lowest bidder last week, so we’ll just have to make due with the most recent one.

Can you tell how happy we are to leave?

All this and we would be back in Alaska before the end of the day. Imagine how thrilled we will be when we leave for several years…

The border crossing station is a good 30-45 minutes after we crossed the actual border. Up until Friday, we thought I might have to skip this leg of the trip and fly to Juneau to meet the guys on the ferry. You see, the Coast Guard told us that we needed passports to go through Canada. So we applied for no-fee passports that can’t be used for touring, but work with Steve’s orders to get us civilians into and out of the country. The boys’ passports came about 3 weeks ago, but not mine. It’s a Murphy’s Law thing. I have a spare copy of each of the boy’s birth certificates, but I only have one of mine. So last week, when they relaxed the border crossing regulations, I still didn’t have what I needed since my birth certificate was conveniently located with my passport application. It worked out OK, my passport made it to Steve’s office on Friday – 24 hours before we left. Look at me, I’m legal! Yay!

Shortly after entering Canada, we solved one of the great auto mysteries of all time. Well, not really, but it has been bugging us for 3 years. Canada apparently has a law that all vehicles must have their light on at all times. It has always bothered Steve that it is impossible to dim the lights on my Explorer. We thought it was a Ford thing. Now we aren’t so sure. What does one have to do with the other? I bought my car 1-year used from Canada. Even scraped a sticker off the window that read “Object’s du mirror blah-blah-blah” So now we know.

So, Canada roads are awful! Talk about frost heaves! Crazy, crazy, bumpy roads. Some of them are even paved. Remember those frost heaves from yesterday? They were much worse today. So we bounced our way through Canada. Steve did a pretty good job of slowing down or avoiding many of the bumps, but as we were trucking along we hit a series of them. They were spaced just right, so that we hit the second or third bump at about the point that the shocks were compressed from hitting the first bump, so it felt like we didn’t really have shocks at all. Of course, Malley sat up in her kennel on the first bump, only to have it come down and hit her in the head on the next one. This is an adventure, right?

About 2 minutes later, Steve thought to pull over to check on the boys bikes that are on a rock on the back of the car. It’s a good thing we checked, because here is what we found:


Let’s just say that I am sooooo glad, Steve was driving. That way it can be the road’s fault, not mine! It gets better. Drew’s bike as cool-guy trick pegs on it and the peg smashed into the back of the Explorer, leaving a lovely gouge. It took about 1/2 an hour to reset the bikes, so in the meantime, the boys walked the dog along the tree line near the road.

Then we set off again. Without getting into too many details about boys and the woods, I was the only one who needed to find a rest area after our roadside delay. I mentioned this to the driver and he slowed down a few minutes later at the next rest stop – right before he passed it up! I had flashbacks to road trips with my Dad when I was a kid. I once mentioned making a rest stop in Tennessee. We stopped in Cincinnati. Yes, there is an entire state in the middle there. (Kentucky for the geographically challenged.)

Not long later – BAM! We pulled over to check the bikes again. Again, good thing. They were tweaked and we came to the conclusion that we actually broke the bike rack during the first catastrophe. Steve reached for the duct tape and we jerry-rigged a quick fix. Looks like we’ll be buying a new rack in Seattle.

It’s not a move, it’s an adventure.

Tune in later, for day 2 part 2. I hope to get this done before we get onto the ferry. If not, it will most likely be Friday before you hear from us again.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

23 June 2007 (part 2)

Road Turbulence.
So the road from Palmer to Tok is no place for a nap. Even if you are not driving. The early part of the trip is windy-twisty. No, not windy. I’ll go with windie. As we go up into the Chugach Mountains, past the remote Matanuska Glacier, Sheep Mountain and a bunch of other places that I can’t recall the names of... Much of the road parallels the Matanuska River valley which was cut by the remote Matanuska Glacier, way back when it was actually remote and the nearest Starbucks was several hundred miles away.

Steve and I had the opportunity to whitewater raft part of the Matanuska two years ago. It was my first time rafter and what a trip! It was great fun. I took an unexpected swim call, but managed to survive. Funny thing about glacier fed rivers, they are full of silt. Very fine, very powdery silt. Like black flour that doesn’t dissolve in water. If you go swimming, you are likely to end up with silt everywhere. For about three weeks. This is what I think about when I gaze upon the mighty Matanuska.

We stopped for gas and a quick dog jog in Glennallen. I was in charge of the dog jog and Nate was the Poop Manager. Nate is all time Poop Manager until he learns how to walk the dog. He likes to let go of the leash as soon as she pulls. And, well, she’s a husky. Pulling is what she does. She has 100 years of inbreeding telling her to pull. So in order to maintain a balance of responsibility Nate gets to carry the plastic bag and walk along with Malley and her designated walker to manage the poop. It is not a job he loves and he is much more motivated to learn how to walk the dog now.

After the gas stop, the road seemed to straighten and flatten out. Which you would think is a good thing. Notsomuch. The thing about flat long roads up here is that they aren’t flat for long. The frost heaves put speed bumps in the highway, so you’ll be driving along and all of a sudden hit a small roller coaster ride dip. Which is kind of fun the first time, but gets old after a few hours. It feels a lot like turbulence in an aircraft. Only you are in much greater danger of hitting the ground.

Interesting sight along the road: we saw a moose standing in a small pond about 300 yards from the road. His head was under the water. Not just taking a drink, but under the water. I thought maybe he was blowing bubbles. This led to a spirited rendition of “I Love My Lips” from a Moose Tunes CD the boys have.
I’m a moose and I love my lips
I’m a moose and I love my lips
I like my long legs and my big bony hips
But I really, really love my lips
Sing shoobedy doobedy doobie doobiedo.

See, this road trip stuff can be fun.

Shortly after the moose, we passed a place in the road where we think we saw chickens crossing three years ago. Incongruity reigns supreme in America’s last frontier. No chickens, but we did reminisce about the rare Arctic Chickens we almost ran over last time. It’s interesting, they go straight to the freezer case in the grocery store.

We arrived in Tok at about 10:15, Malley was especially interested to learn that Tok was named after a sled dog. We could tell because her right ear perked up. We found Young’s Motel and Fast Freddy’s Restaurant. I assume Freddy’s last name is Young, but I didn’t ask. The motel was Motel6ish, not a resort, but the small room was clean. Perfectly acceptable for a few hours of sleep on a road trip. The boys, the dog and our hotel:


Fast Freddy’s closed at 11 so we stopped for a smackeral before we moved into the room. I an attempt to be healthy, everyone but Nate had a salad. Nate had chicken dinosaurs. What 6 year old can resist chicken dinosaurs? The food was fine, but nothing to write home about. Which is a good thing considering that we don’t actually have a home right now.

This is beautiful downtown Tok. OK, so the most interesting thing is that I took this photo at 11:30 pm.

The moon over Tok.

We jogged the dog, settled into the room, I wrote some of this drivel and lights out was at about midnight. Well, the room lights were out, but it was bright and sunny outside.
23 June 2007 – 2345 (11:45 p.m.)

One the road again
Oh no wait, we need to pick up laundry
Just can’t wait

Hummm, we really need linner
To get on the road again

The rare Chugiak harmonics stop
Ugh, finally!

Greetings from Tok, Alaska (pronounced toke), population not a lot. It is late, but we are here. This is our third time in Tok since it is the logical stopping point one day drive from Anchorage. We’ve been here enough to know that sourdough pancakes at the log cabin in front of a campground will be calling our names in the morning.

We got a late start today. Call it too much to do. Call it we went out for margaritas with friends instead of finishing the new utility room floor last night. Call it not really being motivated to leave our home. Whatever you want to call it, we left Eagle River somewhere between 4 & 6 hours later than we planned to.

So, we finally piled into the car with enough stuff to put any pioneer family to shame and made the long trek 3 doors down the street. Then we got out to pick up the last of our laundry. It was pretty anti-climactic. Our friend Angela is away for the summer, so we took advantage of an open guest room and washer and dryer that weren’t loaded on a truck by the lowest bidder for the last 2 nights…thanks Ang!

So is it time to go yet? No… it was about 3 pm and we hadn’t eaten much today, which led to our first challenge. We needed food fast. Easy enough, right? Notsomuch. One of the goals of this adventure is to make it all the way to DC without eating in a national chain restaurant. Greasy spoon dining across America. This will also necessitate “Family PT” every morning. Mom will lead the sun salutation yoga practice and dad will lead calisthenics. It’s a plan & now that it is written for the entire world to see (or at least the 4 people who have made it this far), I’m sure you will all keep us honest about it. But I digress. Eagle River is not a thriving metropolis, but we have our share of fast food. We drove past all of them to hit the Fred Meyer. Freds is a big grocery store, household goods type of place. Think Super Wal-Mart with better stuff. And without the smilie face. Or the discriminating employment practices. Or the community destruction.

We had lunch at the deli counter. It was about 3:30, so it was more like linner. I was surprised that a sandwich for Steve and I, mac & cheese for Drew & two chicken legs for Nate was $24 bucks. This no-chain thing might not be cheap. Oh well.

We discovered during lunch that chickens have handle bones. That is apparently the bone that holds the chicken legs together so you can hold onto it and eat it. Drew’s theory, Nate’s lunch.

It is now 1600 (4 pm), which is ridiculous since we had planned to leave the house at around 1000 (knowing full well that we really wouldn’t be gone until noon-ish). We missed. But now we are finally on the road. About 30 seconds after entering the highway, we discovered Chugiak Harmonics. What’s that? Well, we were headed to Chugiak and our Explorer was humming. Loudly. The boys bikes are strapped to the back of the SUV and the belt was making a lovely noise. Also, the Alaska flag that Steve had taped to the top of the antenna was making an awful noise. So, we pulled off at the Chugiak exit – about 2 miles from Fred’s and a grand total of about 7 miles from our house. Maybe we’ll never get to DC. I’m not sure that is a bad thing.

Steve reset the bike rack & lowered the flag as we burst into a quasi-respectful rendition of the Alaska Flag Song. Yes we have a song about our flag. Alaskans have this thing about our flag. Any Alaskan over the age of about 5 can tell you that Benny Benson designed our flag when he was about 12 years old, and can sing at least the beginning of the flag song. That’s the kind of place Alaska is. We’re a young state, ol’ Benny is still walking around. I like it.

Steve then realized what the problem was. We are out of road trip practice. SAP ALERT! We hadn’t done our standby-the-car-hug-and-kiss thing yet. That is why it took us an hour to get 7 miles from home and nothing is going right. So we stood by the car pulled off an exit ramp and did the mooshy thing. Much to the Monkey’s disgust. EEEWWWWW.

Now we are really on the road. It is 4:00 and only 290 miles to Tok. Hummph.
We passed through the Palmer Hay Flats on our way to the “Remote” Matanuska Glacier. If you saw the TV show Treasure Hunters last year, one of the teams started on the glacier. We laughed at the “remote” description because it is about 30 minutes from a Starbucks and 45 minutes from a Wal-Mart. Which I guess in most parts of the country would make it remote.

Running out of time, so I’ll leave you with these cliff hangers…

Did they make it to Tok? (oh wait, that was in the first sentence)

Did Monkey-Doo make the trip?

Were they attacked by Arctic Chickens?

Will the mooshy-ness continue?

Tune if for more…
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The Goal:
Make it from Eagle River, AK to Washington, DC as an intact family (including the dog) & do it while avoiding national chain restaurants, not gaining a million pounds, and having fun along the way.

First a bit about us:


Dad/Steve/Bozo - currently a freakishly bearded CG officer on leave for 47 days


Mom/Michelle/M – currently unemployed non-profit guru, seriously considering not shaving her legs until the beard is gone


Drew/Monkeyboy/Jackson – almost 9yo freak of a boy with a more sophisticated sense of humor than most adults I know


Nate/Monkeyboy/Huckleberry – 6yo drama king & evil genius


Malley – 6 month old Alaskan Husky (our little souvenir)
















Saturday, May 19, 2007